Which Self Defense Weapons You Need?

Self-defense weapons have become a necessity in today’s society where your personal and household self-defense is frequently threatened. If your prime concern is the safety of your loved ones and yourself, do not have second thoughts about being prepared. Just remember -– it is important to have the right self-defense weapon for your particular situation.

Yourself defense does matter. There are many ways you can prepare for the possibility of attack. Sometimes, preparation consists of nothing more than prevention. Knowing how to act, which situations to avoid, and moving with confidence can all help. But—-sooner or later—-you may be facing an assailant.

With the right self-defense weapons, you’ll have TIME to protect yourself and may even be able to bring your attacker down! Your attacker won’t know what hit him. Some weapons can even help you mark him, which will make him easy to apprehend.

Know that the safety and security of your family, home, office and property is assured because you’ve taken steps to protect yourself.

Have more peace of mind, sleep better at night, and walk the streets in confidence and control, because you have taken the time to learn about which self-defense weapons will best meet your needs. Your personal protection is at stake!

Here are a few weapons you might consider as you start to explore what’s available:

Rifles

Although bolt-action hunting rifles may be perfect for taking large game, they make a wrong choice for home-defense. These guns load slowly, fire slowly, and the high-power cartridges they shoot produce excessive muzzle flash, noise, and recoil and are very likely to over penetrate the target. If you want a rifle for home defense, then consider a tactical semi-auto or pistol-caliber carbine. Always try to keep a rifle scope for perfect shooting.

Telescopic Steel Baton

This is the self-defense weapon that most law enforcement and police agencies use today. Many of these organizations are replacing the old “Billy Club” style baton with the more technologically advanced telescopic baton.

Handcuffs

What could be better for keeping the attacker in place once he is subdued than handcuffs? You can also use leg cuffs or thumb cuffs to immobilize him.

Knives

There are many different types and styles of knives that you could use. You can read all about the many varieties of knives that are available, including butterfly knives, pen knives, and folding knives.

Metal Detectors

For security and law enforcement personnel, a hand held metal detector is an essential self-defense weapon. These small scanners can pick up almost any metal weapon, including pistols and knives.

And here are a few weapons that are not used as much for self-defense as for sporting and fun…

Cross Bows

A crossbow gives its user far more power and accuracy than a traditional bow. If you’ve never shot a crossbow, you can’t believe how powerful it is. This is more commonly used as a sporting weapon, but you never know when it might come in handy for self-defense too.

Blow Guns

Over 40,000 years ago, the first blowguns began to appear in many different parts of the world. In today’s world, blowguns, paintballs, and stun darts offer a wide variety of sporting activities.

Sling Shots

High-Velocity sling shots fold down to a compact size and have over a 100-yard range. They’re perfect for slinging insects, rocks or even bad guys Brings back memories of the good old days.

Air pistol:

This weapon is styled after some of the world’s most famous firearms. The air pistol maintenance free design and affordability make them an excellent entry level weapon for the hobby and recreational enthusiast.

SOLVED: Bug Out on foot with family AND gear…

It all started with a problem….

What if I needed to leave on foot?  If my mode of transportation was stolen, broken, out of fuel, stuck in a ditch, fried by an EMP, or in endless bumper to bumper traffic…

How would I take my young children …some who are too little to walk…or too little to walk for long…AND my food, supplies, and gear away to a safe place?

I needed a reliable, time proven method for transporting people, goods, and equipment.  I needed something that was light weight, that could potentially hold a LOT of weight.  I needed something that required no tools, was easy to maintain, and could hold up to the rigors of mother nature in various climates and terrain.

So I went to work.  After a year of design and engineering, burning through three different prototypes, and over 980 hours of 3D printing…something truly remarkable was born:  The Polymule Handcart

A modern handcart that takes less than five minutes to assemble, has a completely tool-less design, and can be disassembled and stowed inside itself. It is both durable and functional, with a high-impact body, solid frame, and integrated kickstand mechanism.

Features :

– Over 300 lbs Capacity and up to 15 Cubic Feet of Cargo

– High Impact and Tough Thermoplastic Body

– UV Stable / Cold Hardy

– 5 Minute Tool-less Assembly and Disassembly

– Completely Stowable (All components fit inside the handcart body)

– Integrated Kickstand

– Precision Sealed Bearings

– No Flat Tires

– Drain Plug

– ATV Attachment

– Optional All-Weather Canvas Cover

How to get one :

In order to help make the Polymule a reality, we have launched a crowd funding campaign on Kickstarter.  On this page, interested parties can PRE-ORDER the handcart to help raise the capital needed to start production.

Cards are charged AFTER the campaign, and ONLY IF we reach our funding goal.  Therefore you could say, it’s “ALL OR NOTHING”.

Solar Generators Vs Fuel Generators

In the past 10 years, many companies have tried to develop a new way of powering our lives. Most of them have placed their bets on solar energy. Sun provides so much energy in one minute that it can power the entire Earth for one year. Learning to harness that energy would bring so many changes, starting with the cost of electricity bills. But are solar generators the future, and can they replace fuel generators? Which one is better and provides more energy? Let us break it down and judge them based on their performances.

“Free energy”

The concept of free energy is pretty simple. Sun is there for a reason, and we might as well utilize some of its energy. There are plenty of reasons one should install solar panels: they will generate so much energy in the upcoming years that you will never have to pay for electricity again. Yes, they can be a bit expensive to start with, but the prices of solar panels are dropping every year and very soon they will be available even for the “common people”.

Solar generators rock!

These little wonders are very simple to use. Just place them somewhere safe, and let their photo-voltaic (PV) panels do all the work. The PV panels will transform the sunlight into electricity and send it to be stored inside the batteries to be used later. Once the batteries are full, the inverter will take direct electricity (DC) and convert it into alternative electricity (AC). If you are up camping in the wild, you can use these and get all the electricity needed for powering your favorite gadgets, charging your phone and even some more complicated devices. On top of all that, they are Eco-friendly and will not release any chemicals or gases. Your home value will skyrocket and if you ever decide to sell it, buyers will offer more only for the solar panels and generators.

Their performance compared to fuel generators

Yes, fuel generators are known to produce electricity a bit faster, but they require much more to start with. They require fuel to power the generators without which they are useless. In case you go out of fuel, you will also be left without electricity. Another downside of fuel generators is that they create a lot of pollution by releasing chemicals in the air. They are portable just like solar generators, but their function depends on having enough fuel to power them.

Preppers choose solar power

Since the technology is developing so fast, preppers can now safely rely solely on solar power. Designs such as goal zero yeti 400 generators have proven to be more than enough to power an entire house in case something “unexpected” happens. There is a chance that one day, something bad may happen to the world. It could be a nuclear strike, a zombie apocalypse or a virus outbreak. If that occurs, electricity will be almost unaffordable and the only remaining source of energy will be the Sun. So we might as well prepare?

Time to go solar

If you haven’t done it by now, do it as fast as you can. It will most likely be the most reliable source of energy in the near future and it will save you a lot of money if you invest now. With solar panels and grids set, you can become completely energy independent. Yes, there will be days when the clouds will cover the sky and you will collect less energy, but the Sun as we know it won’t leave us any time soon.

What’s Up with Wind: Your Small Scale Wind Energy Questions Answered

Wind energy may appear like a no brainer for renewable energy production in many places. Is it always windy at your location? Doesn’t it seem like it would be an easy thing to harness all that free potential energy?

Q: The wind is always blowing at my house, should I go with wind energy?

A: Though the winds may blow, it may not be consistent enough for energy production. Sound crazy? Wind speeds for reliable energy production have to blow consistently (average of 15 mph), AND keep sustained speeds at the right height. You can’t put a turbine right outside your front door and expect great performance, and variations occur once you get up to 20, 30, 40 feet in the air. Tower height is a major contributor to wind system performance. Putting a large turbine on a short tower is the equivalent to putting a solar panel in the shade: it just doesn’t make sense.

Q: Does a bigger turbine equal more power?

A: Sort of. A larger turbine may produce more watts but a properly sizes turbine for your conditions will produce many more watt-hours. Also, not all turbines are created equally. Some excel in light winds while others are created for higher mile per hour winds.

Q: I have an old windmill; can I use that to make my own energy?

A: Not if you want to sell power back to the grid. Grid connected wind energy systems must be UL listed and not home built. But if you are looking to pump some water or charge batteries under the radar, your old windmill might just come in handy.

Q: What’s the deal with vertical access wind turbines?

A: Vertical access turbines take a different approach. They rely on a vertical axis and are marketed as a safer option for animals because of the lack of defined blades. Noise pollution can be reduced and they can also operate in more fluctuating gusts. This technology is experimental at the present.

Q: How do I know if my site is windy enough for wind energy?

A: You really need to monitor wind speeds at your chosen tower height for a sustained period of time. Raising a pole with a wind monitor and collecting data for a year can accomplish this. For an ideal site, wind energy can be extremely cost effective but only if the right conditions exist. Without enough site data you risk buying a really expensive piece of yard art. Plus, marauders can find you from a distance.

PREPAREDNESS TIP: BEST RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES by Andrew Skousen

Batteries are some of the quickest items to disappear in a crisis—and for good reason. Batteries are a critical technology that can’t be manufactured easily and so many items need them when the power goes out: flashlights, LED lamps, FM radios, shortwave radios, handheld ham radios, radiation meters, GPS receivers, and many other devices. Although some electronics like handheld ham radios have their own rechargeable lithium-ion batteries, these eventually become unreliable so be sure to get the optional accessory case that accepts standard AA or AAA batteries. 

Rechargeable batteries have earned themselves a bad rap over the last several decades due to the fast self-discharge qualities of conventional Ni-MH (nickel-metal hydride) batteries. Within a month they lose 30% or more of their stored power leaving users frustrated by the poor performance and dim results. The unsophisticated chargers of the past also contributed to the bad experience by failing to sense accurately the quirks of the Ni-MH units. Fortunately modern developments have improved on both of these problems. New low self-discharge (LSD) batteries retain 85% of their power for a whole year and hold at least 70% as long as 5 years later. They also perform better in a variety of devices from fast discharge (like electronics) to slow discharge like remote controls. The best modern chargers can sense sub-par batteries and often reinvigorate them.

Low self-discharge technology was pioneered by a Japanese battery company that produced the Sanyo Eneloop batteries—a brand that quickly became well respected because of the performance. But when Sanyo was bought out by Panasonic the production was switched to a Chinese factory that didn’t produce the same quality product. Cheap Chinese low self-discharge batteries are now everywhere under various brands. Fortunately, the Japanese factory is still making and improving their batteries but now under the Fujitsu brand and this brand is the best option on the market. Packs of 8 AA are available for $22. They also make AAA. The latest batteries are rated for 2100 recharge cycles.

The downside to the new low-self discharge batteries is that they aren’t rated for as much initial power as conventional Ni-MH cells so you will still see the old variety out there. Disposable alkaline batteries are also rated for higher power but after a few months the others have lost so much power that the LSD batteries become roughly equivalent in as little as 5 weeks. For easy information about everything related to rechargeable batteries read Joe Golton’s well-researched blog that concisely highlights the pertinent issues and compares the different varieties well. He also covers the best battery chargers which I will discuss in next week’s tip.

Unfortunately the improvements in technology are harder to carry over to the larger C, D and 9-volt batteries, so they are still behind. I am certain they are working on it and we will see better options in the future. Currently they are still fairly weak compared to the equivalent alkaline and self-discharge faster than the AA and AAA options discussed above. Still, if we don’t see better options in the next few years it will be worth getting some of these just to have a rechargeable option when you can’t get disposables for a time. The current Tenergy brand rechargeables are pretty good and certainly much better than resorting to the sleeves for the tiny AA cells—they just don’t have enough power to last long in the situations where you need a C or D. We maintain an updated link to the best products we have found including batteries on our recommended products page.

I recommend everyone begin the transition over to these newer rechargeable batteries for all but the slowest discharge items like clocks and remote controls. Although the new batteries work just fine in these devices the cheap alkalines are a little better so there’s no reason tying up your more expensive batteries where they won’t be used as often.

PREPAREDNESS TIP: PRESSURE CANNING by Andrew Skousen

Outside of the air conditioner, refrigerators and freezers typically consume the most energy in a house and you will want to eliminate this load in hard times when home-produced power will be scarce. The key is to convert the short-term harvests of summer produce and fall butchered meat into shelf-stable forms for use throughout the year. As I have covered in previous tips dehydrating food is one option, but canned food is almost always easier to use and eat.

Steam canning and water bath canning are practical for acidic foods like fruit and tomatoes but vegetables and meats must be canned at higher temperatures to kill not just bacteria and viruses (eliminated by boiling temperatures) but also the spores of the bacteria botulinum (botulism). Once a food begins to boil it is very difficult to heat it to higher temperatures—the water just keeps boiling off. The solution is to contain the heat and steam in a pressure vessel. Water boils at higher temperatures under pressure.

The best line of pressure canners is still the All-American because of its patented lid shape which does not need a gasket—eliminating a weak point in other models. It also uses the weight on top to manage 5, 10 or 15 pounds of pressure which never needs recalibration like the adjustable pressure gauges on other models. The large 21-1/2 quart canner (model 921) is the best size for most households; it holds 7-quart jars or 19 pint jars and is deep enough to process ½ gallon jars. There are larger models too but they are too big for most stoves and take even longer to heat up.

Despite their versatility over any heat source, stovetop pressure canners are inefficient because they require so much heat energy and time from the operator. They take over 15 minutes to heat up and build the pressure and then you have to watch the pressure gauge as you fiddle with the stovetop burner setting to get and hold the right pressure. It is much more tedious than a steam canner.

The modern electric pressure cookers on the market like the Instant Pot seem like the ideal solution. They use less heat and have a computer to control temperature, pressure and time—a kind of “set it and forget it” canner. What could be better? The problem is that most units are only rated for up to 10 psi and the National Center for Home Food Preservation (NCHFP) wants to see 15 psi for higher altitudes, and has declared that none of the machines meet their approval. Most manufacturers have backed down from any canning claims except to recommend their units for acidic products that are easily steam canned instead.

Many experienced homemakers from a generation ago would likely laugh at these official precautions. Back then households regularly canned even non-acidic products in a steam canner and the incidence of botulism was still very rare. I suspect there are factors that reduce the growth of the botulinum or reduce the effects of its toxins that are ignored by our safety agencies in their efforts to avoid any risk altogether. For instance these safety groups advise throwing out any food bottled by questionable methods, yet the CDC itself acknowledges that simply heating infected food to 185 degrees F (which is still below boiling) for several minutes will neutralize botulism toxins. Non-acidic canned products like meat and vegetables are nearly always heated up in a meal before being consumed. Whereas the jams, jellies and fruit preserves we enjoy straight out of the jar are acidic which naturally impedes the bacteria spores.

Some electric pressure cookers still sell their ability to be used for canning, such as the Carey 9SS model, but if you come to rely on electric canners, get a backup stovetop pressure canner for hard times when electricity may be harder to come by than a hot wood stove. At a third of the cost the Presto 23 quart model is a good backup unit that also uses a weight for pressure, but be careful with it because the aluminum isn’t as sturdy and it has a gasket seal.

The Presto website has current advice for cook times and pressures for different vegetables. The times are easy to figure out once you realize that items with thicker flesh or canned in larger chunks need more time for the heat to penetrate. I am surprised how many products merit the maximum pressure (15 psi) and 90 minutes of processing which is a long time to have your stove on high heat. If you can’t achieve this level of processing in hard times, consider your lower times or pressures that still seal the jars well and pasteurize the contents and write “heat before serving” on the lid. Even less-than-perfect canning will be better than letting food rot when the freezer isn’t working.

Make Sure You’re Securing Your Garage Door

A garage door is an inviting target for thieves to enter your home. On the outside, a closed garage door looks secure, but it can be anything but. Thieves like to try garage doors because too many people leave them unlocked to make it easy to get in and out.

Garrett Waldrop, founder of National Garage Doors of Atlanta, says “Garage doors can be secured, but many homeowners don’t take the time to secure their garage doors. Forgetting to lock the door is common, and some people even leave it open all the time. This is an invitation for thieves.” 

Securing your garage is easier than you might think. The fundamental step in any home protection plan is to start thinking like a burglar. If you wanted to rob your own garage, what would make it easier or harder to do so? Here are some suggestions to improve your garage security.

Always Use a Physical Lock

Let’s start with the obvious. Lock your garage door and the inner door into your home every time you go to bed or leave the house. Inner doors should use a deadbolt with a reinforced frame. Garage doors often come with a physical deadbolt lock that bolts the door to the frame. However, the slot can become misaligned over time due to wear and tear on the rails. If you can’t bolt your door shut then it needs to be replaced. 

Commercial garage doors have locking mechanisms that make doors much harder to open from the outside. Barring ramming the door with a vehicle, these are an excellent deterrent for thieves. However, commercial solutions can make it impossible to use an automatic garage door opener.

Secure Automatic Openers

Physical locks have a major downside. If you park your car in your garage, you’ll have to manually open the door from the inside to park. Automatic openers are risky because it is possible to spoof a garage door opener. Worse, many people leave their automatic openers inside of their vehicles. If a burglar can access your vehicle, then your garage door is easy pickings.

If you must use an automatic opener, use one that requires a code input rather than a single button. That way it won’t help a burglar if they do manage to get the opener from your car if you leave it outside of the garage. Better yet, just use a physical lock or use a remote keypad on the side of your home to punch in the code.

Install Lights

No burglar wants to work in the light where anyone can see. A simple motion detection flood light that covers the front of the garage will make it much more likely that a burglar will get noticed. Even in a remote rural area, a burglar won’t want to work under a spotlight.

Install Cameras

Even installing a fake camera that points to your garage door can serve as an excellent deterrent. There are no lights on home security cameras these days to let a burglar know if it’s on or not. It just has to look like it’s connected.

Avoid Garage Door Windows

Any window into a garage is an entry point, but windows in your garage door are a great target for thieves. Not only do they allow an outsider to look into your garage and see if it’s worth robbing, but they also provide an access point. Deadbolts can’t keep this kind of door secure. It’s easier than you might think to pop the windows out.

Use Steel Doors

In an extreme situation, a burglar could ram your garage door to break into it while you’re away. A frame deadbolt helps, but installing a steel garage door will make it much less likely that a robber like this will have a working vehicle afterward. They’re expensive, but worth considering if you keep a lot of expensive equipment in your garage.

The most important rule for garage door security is to lock your garage door every time. Fancy security doesn’t work if you don’t use it! Make it part of your evening routine to check the garage door and your risk of a garage robbery will go down significantly.

PREPAREDNESS TIP: TOP 50 HARDWARE STORE ITEMS by Andrew Skousen

The hardware store is so full of practical, useful products it can be hard to choose what to buy before hard times when store shelves will be empty for a time. Fortunately much of the big inventory is all for new construction and your stockpile should focus on repair materials that will help you keep your home and property functioning. The most important items can’t be manufactured easily. Here are some ideas:

Nails: 16 penny (for fastening 2x4s together), 10 and 6 penny (for plywood). Short 1 inch nails with large heads are also important for fixing roof shingles. Some people may also want the large 20 penny “spikes” for bigger timbers.

Screws: wood and drywall screws are valuable for all kinds of projects and repairs. These are the gold and black “Grabber” style screws typically used in construction. You should have a large “contractor’s box” of the 4 inch and 1.5 inch long screws plus an assortment of the other sizes.

Bolts, nuts and washers: Get various sizes and lengths, but make sure the nuts and washers you get work for the bolt thread type (course or fine). Also, if you buy a few lengths of all-thread rod you can cut them to whatever bolt length you need with a hacksaw, but you will need extra nuts and washers to lock them in place unless you can weld them to the rod. 

Glue: Wood glue (standard white “Elmer’s” or “Gorilla Glue” and its waterproof equivalent), construction adhesive (like “liquid nails”), 2-part epoxy (several packages), cans of rubber contact cement (the little bottles dry up too quickly), silicone (clear and white), white caulk, black bituminous roof patch (roof tar), super glue, multi-purpose glues, etc. 

Tape: Duct tape (Duck brand is good), thin and wide masking tape, clear packing tape, foil-backed tape for high temperatures (for true duct work) and outdoor UV-resistance.

Plastic: A Roll or two of clear plastic is useful for boarding up broken windows so you can keep rain and cold out but still let light in. 6mil is generally the thickest sold. It should be transparent and sun resistant. If you can find clear Mylar plastic sheeting, they make good semi-permanent replacements for glass.

Wire: Galvanized tie wire of varying thicknesses is extremely useful for quick repairs of all kinds. Get spools of varying thickness from 10 gauge and thinner. Depending on your experience or willingness to tinker and create solutions with electrical you will also need: 10 or 12 gauge 3-wire Romex (insulated wire typically used in residential construction). Several spools of 14 and 16 gauge multi-strand wire for smaller electrical projects. 

Misc. Hardware: Hinges, padlocks, latches, bolt-locks and other useful hardware is valuable for so many projects, particularly if you have to beef up certain parts of your house or property to keep out increased theft that is bound to happen in hard times.

Rope: High quality woven nylon rope is the easiest to work with. Parachute cord is strong, lightweight and cheap. If you have the inclination to handle bigger projects you may also need steel cable and chain but don’t forget the cable clamps, chain hooks or threaded links to make use of them.

Tools: This is a big category. You should have good quality gardening tools like sturdy shovels (some regular and some square), pick axe, garden rakes and a wheelbarrow. There are also critical wood-chopping tools - A gas powered chainsaw with a 24 inch blade in addition to old fashioned back-ups like an axe and two-man crosscut saw. A chainsaw is certainly worth storing fuel for; some users estimate 1/4-1/2 gallon of fuel/oil mix per cord. Trimming pruners and bow saws are also needed. For splitting wood get a sturdy splitting maul (wide, heavy splitting ax), some splitting wedges and sledgehammer (the latter is for tough, gnarled wood that doesn’t split easily). Don’t forget the sharpening tools including for the chainsaw. Harbor Freight tools sells a special chain saw grinding machine for around $40—worth it’s weight in gold compared to hand filing a dull chain.. When our furnace quit working recently a repairman quoted us $500 to replace a circuit board (and strongly hinted that we needed a whole new furnace for $4,500). After a quick internet search we bought the part for $100 and installed it ourselves. It is amazing how many things you can repair yourself if you’re willing to tinker with the problem and do some research. Calling a repairman may seem convenient but more often than not you’ll have to sit around in the cold, the dark or with the water off waiting for them to show up, find the part and get it done. Even then you never really know if they repaired it right. To be self reliant every homeowner needs to be willing to learn how to repair as much as possible in the home and get the tools for the job. In the future the internet will be down for a long time so we suggest getting a good “how-to” manual for home repairs such as this one.

You can’t tinker with things unless you have a few basic tools. The quality of your basic tools matters here, so don’t get distracted by the cheap, flashy or cordless alternatives. Many of the recommendations below came from this useful article on SurvivalistBlog.com.

   Screwdrivers are easily the most used tool for repair work. Forget the fancy-looking handles, look for quality in a hard metal tip. The Philips head (+) is best for screws but flathead (–) drivers get almost as much use prying, cleaning, scraping, chiseling and, of course, driving corresponding screws. I really like the Klein Tools multi-screwdriver recommended in the article above. Jewelers screwdrivers are important for fixing glasses and changing watch batteries.

   Hammers come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and prices. Framing hammers have an embossed head to connect better with nails, but smaller “finish” hammers are better around the house since they don’t damage finished surfaces, ends of chisels, etc. as much. Watch out for cheap oak handles that get loose over time; I think the fiberglass or steel handles are better.

   Wrenches are needed for all bolts and nuts. Adjustable or “crescent” wrenches can handle most home repairs but know their limitations: it’s hard to crank these down tight on a bolt head so if it is rusted or stuck the wrench will just round off the corners of the bolt. That’s why auto mechanics rely on sets of individual wrenches and box ratchets for a tighter fit (Craftsman brand is good). Metric sizes are for import cars, “standard” or SAE English units are for American autos. The “vise-grip” wrench mentioned in the article sounds like a great item.

   Pliers come in lots of shapes and sizes. Get linesman pliers, needle nose and “channel lock” pliers. I also like a long-handled needlenose for reaching into tight spaces and the extra large channel locks for undoing “hand tightened” ABS drain connections. I’ve found quality isn’t as critical on pliers since they are limited by your grip strength. Large and small locking jaw (“Vise-grip”) pliers are very useful but don’t overuse them—they can damage what they grip.

   Wire stripper/cutter is a must for any electrical work. Quality makes wire work easy but for odd jobs you can get by with the cheap ones.

   Saws are critical. Get a hand saw for wood (or anything softer), a hole saw for tight spaces and a hack saw (with spare blades) for metal or fine cutting.

   Drills: Don’t be without a full complement of high quality drill bits. A full drill index is a box of progressive drill bit sizes from 1/32 to ½ inch. Also get spade bits, and hole saws.

   Other useful items: A measuring tape, files, a wood chisel set, razor knife, nail puller, and soldering iron. Your box should also have assorted products like tape, drywall screws, baling wire, electrical wire nuts, solder, etc. See my dad’s storage list book, 10 Packs for Survival.

Buy reliable tools and maintain them. Learn how to sharpen knives, saws and even drill bits. Stockpile hacksaw blades. Someday we won’t just be able to run to the store and pick up more. For the budget minded, try Harbor Freight discount tools. They don’t sell the highest quality tools, but it is definitely improving, and they are good enough for general use.

Plumbing: Spare pipe (most newer houses have the flexible PEX tubing) and the appropriate clamp rings and fittings for common joints. If you have PEX get the necessary crimping tool. Toilet, sink and tub drain repair kits are inexpensive and can keep your bathrooms running. The inside “cassette” on the tub control also wears out eventually, so keep a spare on hand (specific to your plumbing brand). PVC cement glue and ABS glue is always good to have around. Plumber’s putty is important for sealing around sink and tub drains.

Wood: Most people don’t have space to store much lumber, but a few 2x4s and a couple of sheets of plywood can help you shore up and handle small repairs.

There are more categories beyond this basic list, but they nearly all depend on your skill level and ability to use them. If you take the time to work on your own home repairs now instead of just calling repairmen you will learn many of these skills and get to know how what your house and property need for repairs.

How to Tie a Siberian Hitch (Video)

Krik of Black Owl Outdoors shows you how to tie a Siberian Hitch used to hang a ridge-line, which is a great quick release hitch perfect to use to secure a ridge-line for a tarp while you’re camping, backpacking, or just picnicking in the outdoors.

He goes step by step and slowly shows you how easy it is to accomplish. It may take a couple of tries but once you get it, it quickly becomes a favorite knot to be used.

There are many other types of knots out there that can be used. Several are mentioned in his comment section. I urge you to try different different ones until you find one that satisfies you. The Know How of Knot Tying shows great animation videos to teach you multiple knots.

How to Tie a Siberian Hitch

Make Sure You’re Securing Your Garage Door

A garage door is an inviting target for thieves to enter your home. On the outside, a closed garage door looks secure, but it can be anything but. Thieves like to try garage doors because too many people leave them unlocked to make it easy to get in and out.

 Garrett Waldrop, founder of National Garage Doors of Atlanta, says “Garage doors can be secured, but many homeowners don’t take the time to secure their garage doors. Forgetting to lock the door is common, and some people even leave it open all the time. This is an invitation for thieves.” 

Securing your garage is easier than you might think. The fundamental step in any home protection plan is to start thinking like a burglar. If you wanted to rob your own garage, what would make it easier or harder to do so? Here are some suggestions to improve your garage security.

Always Use a Physical Lock

Let’s start with the obvious. Lock your garage door and the inner door into your home every time you go to bed or leave the house. Inner doors should use a deadbolt with a reinforced frame. Garage doors often come with a physical deadbolt lock that bolts the door to the frame. However, the slot can become misaligned over time due to wear and tear on the rails. If you can’t bolt your door shut then it needs to be replaced. 

Commercial garage doors have locking mechanisms that make doors much harder to open from the outside. Barring ramming the door with a vehicle, these are an excellent deterrent for thieves. However, commercial solutions can make it impossible to use an automatic garage door opener.

Secure Automatic Openers

Physical locks have a major downside. If you park your car in your garage, you’ll have to manually open the door from the inside to park. Automatic openers are risky because it is possible to spoof a garage door opener. Worse, many people leave their automatic openers inside of their vehicles. If a burglar can access your vehicle, then your garage door is easy pickings.

If you must use an automatic opener, use one that requires a code input rather than a single button. That way it won’t help a burglar if they do manage to get the opener from your car if you leave it outside of the garage. Better yet, just use a physical lock or use a remote keypad on the side of your home to punch in the code.

Install Lights

No burglar wants to work in the light where anyone can see. A simple motion detection flood light that covers the front of the garage will make it much more likely that a burglar will get noticed. Even in a remote rural area, a burglar won’t want to work under a spotlight.

Install Cameras

Even installing a fake camera that points to your garage door can serve as an excellent deterrent. There are no lights on home security cameras these days to let a burglar know if it’s on or not. It just has to look like it’s connected.

Avoid Garage Door Windows

Any window into a garage is an entry point, but windows in your garage door are a great target for thieves. Not only do they allow an outsider to look into your garage and see if it’s worth robbing, but they also provide an access point. Deadbolts can’t keep this kind of door secure. It’s easier than you might think to pop the windows out.

Use Steel Doors

In an extreme situation, a burglar could ram your garage door to break into it while you’re away. A frame deadbolt helps, but installing a steel garage door will make it much less likely that a robber like this will have a working vehicle afterward. They’re expensive, but worth considering if you keep a lot of expensive equipment in your garage.

The most important rule for garage door security is to lock your garage door every time. Fancy security doesn’t work if you don’t use it! Make it part of your evening routine to check the garage door and your risk of a garage robbery will go down significantly.